The story of Turkmenistan
Turkmenistan's deserts and oases have hosted civilisations for millennia. In the Bronze Age, the Margiana culture flourished around Gonur Depe in the Murghab delta, building fortified palaces and temples around 2000 BC. Later the land fell within the Persian Achaemenid Empire, and the Parthians, who rose to challenge Rome, had an early royal centre at Nisa near today's Ashgabat. Merv, on the great caravan routes between China and the Mediterranean, grew into one of the most important cities of the ancient and medieval world.
Arab armies brought Islam in the 7th and 8th centuries, and under the Seljuk Turks in the 11th and 12th centuries Merv became a glittering capital, crowned by the mausoleum of Sultan Sanjar. The Mongol invasions of the 13th century devastated the oasis cities, and for centuries afterwards the region was dominated by nomadic and semi-nomadic Turkmen tribes, famed for their horsemanship, felt yurts and intricately knotted carpets, living between rival Persian and Central Asian powers.
Read the full history
In the late 19th century the Russian Empire advanced into the region, and after the Battle of Geok Tepe in 1881 the Turkmen lands were absorbed. Following the Russian Revolution, the Turkmen Soviet Socialist Republic was created in 1924. Soviet rule brought collectivisation, cotton farming fed by the vast Karakum Canal, and the rebuilding of Ashgabat after a devastating earthquake in 1948.
Turkmenistan declared independence in 1991 and adopted a policy of permanent neutrality, recognised by the United Nations in 1995. Its huge natural-gas reserves funded a dramatic white-marble makeover of the capital. The country remains one of the world's least-visited, and tourism is tightly managed. For travellers who make the journey, the rewards are extraordinary: the ruins of Merv and Nisa, the medieval minarets of Kunya-Urgench, the fiery Darvaza gas crater, Akhal-Teke horses and a carpet-weaving tradition that is a source of national pride.
Timeline
- c. 2000 BCBronze Age Margiana civilisation flourishes at Gonur Depe
- c. 250 BCParthian Empire rises, with an early royal centre at Nisa
- 11th centurySeljuk Turks make Merv one of the world's great cities
- 1221Mongol invasions devastate Merv and other oasis cities
- 1881Battle of Geok Tepe leads to Russian imperial control
- 1924Turkmen Soviet Socialist Republic is established
- 1991Turkmenistan declares independence from the Soviet Union
- 1995UN recognises Turkmenistan's permanent neutrality
Entry rules depend on your passport and change often.
Before you book, check the official rules for your passport:
- Visa policy of Turkmenistan (Wikipedia) ↗
- IATA Travel Centre – passport, visa & health rules ↗
- U.S. passport holders – State Department country pages ↗
- UK passport holders – GOV.UK travel advice ↗
The latest visa and entry news for Turkmenistan appears below as soon as publishers report it.
There were no changes to the advisory level or risk indicators. Advisory summary was updated. Exercise normal precautions in Turkmenistan. Advisory summary Turkmenistan is generally a safe destination for travelers. Medical…
#Turkmenistan#Visas & Entry RulesExercise normal precaution in Turkmenistan . Turkmenistan is generally a safe destination for travelers. Medical services for routine and emergency procedures are limited. Review the Health section of the Travel Guidance on this…
#Turkmenistan#Visas & Entry RulesThings to do in Turkmenistan
- Camp by the Darvaza gas craterWatch the 'Door to Hell' roar with flames under a desert sky full of stars.
- Explore ancient MervWalk among the crumbling walls and Seljuk mausoleums of a city that once rivalled Baghdad.
- Tour white-marble AshgabatGaze at gleaming monuments, golden domes and vast empty boulevards in one of the world's most unusual capitals.
- Browse the Tolkuchka BazaarHaggle for hand-knotted carpets, embroidered robes and camel-wool goods at the sprawling market outside Ashgabat.
- Visit the Carpet MuseumSee enormous hand-woven masterpieces and learn the tribal patterns behind Turkmenistan's national symbol.
- Meet Akhal-Teke horsesAdmire the shimmering, golden-coated horses revered as a national treasure at stud farms near Ashgabat.
- Wander Kunya-UrgenchStand beneath the tall Kutlug Timur minaret among the tombs of a once-mighty Khorezm capital.
- See the Parthian fortress of NisaClimb the earthen ramparts of an early Parthian royal centre with views to the Kopet Dag mountains.
- Swim in Kow Ata underground lakeDescend into a cave to bathe in warm, mineral-rich waters deep below ground.
- Hike Yangykala CanyonWatch sunset paint the red, pink and white cliffs of a remote canyon near the Caspian.
Where to go in Turkmenistan
- AshgabatAkhal · capital cityA surreal city of white marble, gold domes and grand monuments, plus excellent museums and bazaars.
- Darvaza Gas CraterKarakum Desert · natural wonderA burning crater in the heart of the desert, best seen after dark from a nearby camp.
- 📍MervMary · ancient Silk Road cityA UNESCO-listed sprawl of successive cities spanning around 4,000 years of history.
- Kunya-UrgenchDashoguz · medieval ruinsElegant mausoleums and soaring minarets recall the glory of the Khorezm empire.
- NisaNear Ashgabat · Parthian fortressUNESCO-listed ruins of one of the earliest Parthian strongholds, an easy trip from the capital.
- 📍Gonur DepeMary · Bronze Age siteThe excavated palace and temples of the Margiana civilisation, remote and atmospheric.
- 📍Yangykala CanyonBalkan · desert canyonVivid striped cliffs rising from the desert floor in the far west of the country.
- 📍Kow Ata Underground LakeAkhal · cave lakeA warm, sulphurous lake in a vast cave, popular with locals for a restorative dip.
- Camp beside the Darvaza crater
- Browse the Tolkuchka bazaar near Ashgabat
- Explore the ruins of ancient Merv
- See Akhal-Teke horses, the national treasure
- Plov – rice with carrots and lamb
- Dograma – soup of torn bread, meat and onion
- Ishlekli – meat pie baked in hot sand or an oven
- Shashlik – grilled meat skewers
Best time to visit Turkmenistan
Turkmenistan has an extreme continental desert climate with scorching, bone-dry summers and cold winters. The Karakum Desert is hottest, while the Caspian coast and Kopet Dag foothills are slightly milder.
Typical daytime highs and rain in Ashgabat (approximate averages).
- MarchNowruzThe Persian New Year marks the spring equinox with feasts, music and traditional games.
- AprilAkhal-Teke Horse DayA national celebration of the famous golden horses, with races and beauty contests.
- MayTurkmen Carpet DayExhibitions, weaving displays and festivities honour the country's legendary carpet craft.
- SeptemberIndependence DayParades, concerts and fireworks in Ashgabat mark independence from the Soviet Union.
- DecemberNeutrality DayA national holiday celebrating the UN recognition of Turkmenistan's permanent neutrality.
How many days in Turkmenistan?
Day 1-2 explore Ashgabat's monuments, Carpet Museum, Tolkuchka Bazaar and the ruins of Nisa. Day 3 drive into the Karakum to camp at the Darvaza gas crater. Day 4-5 continue north to Kunya-Urgench and cross into Uzbekistan, or fly back to Ashgabat.
Day 1-3 Ashgabat, Nisa, Kow Ata and an Akhal-Teke stud farm. Day 4-5 fly or drive to Mary for Merv and Gonur Depe. Day 6-7 Darvaza crater and Kunya-Urgench, then Day 8-10 head west to Yangykala Canyon and the Caspian coast.
Backpacker budget: about $40–70 a day
- Independent travel is very limited – most visitors join a registered tour or use a transit arrangement, so plan well in advance.
- Share a guided tour or 4x4 with other travellers to split the cost of trips to Darvaza and remote sites.
- Eat at local cafés and bazaars for affordable plov, shashlik and fresh flatbread.
- Domestic flights and trains are inexpensive and useful for covering long desert distances.
- Bring enough cash in a major currency and a phrasebook; internet can be slow and many sites are blocked.
Stay safe
- Street crime is low, but photography of government buildings, police and military sites can cause problems – ask first.
- Carry your passport and registration documents at all times, as checks are common.
- Pack plenty of water, sun protection and warm layers for desert trips, where days are hot and nights cold.
- Travel rules can change quickly; check your government's latest travel advice and stay in touch with your tour operator.
Money
- Bring clean, undamaged banknotes in a major currency and exchange only at official banks or exchange offices.
- Foreign cards are rarely accepted and ATMs that work with them are scarce – plan to rely on cash.
- Tipping is not traditional but is appreciated by guides and drivers.
Emergency: 02 police · 03 ambulance · 01 fire
Most visitors fly into Ashgabat International Airport; land borders connect with Uzbekistan, Iran and Kazakhstan, though crossings require advance arrangements.
✈️ Cheap flights to Turkmenistan: airports, flight times & best time to fly →
- Ashgabat holds a Guinness World Record for the highest density of white-marble-clad buildings.
- The Darvaza crater has been burning since the Soviet era, when natural gas was set alight.
- The Turkmen flag features five traditional carpet patterns, one for each major tribe.
- Around 80 percent of Turkmenistan is covered by the Karakum Desert.
- The Akhal-Teke horse is so treasured that it appears on the national coat of arms.
Turkmenistan travel questions
Is Turkmenistan safe for tourists?
Turkmenistan has low street crime and visitors on organised tours rarely face problems. However, the country is tightly controlled, so follow local rules, avoid photographing sensitive sites and check your government's latest travel advice.
Do I need a visa for Turkmenistan?
Visa requirements depend on your passport and usually involve advance paperwork, often arranged through a tour agency. Check the official government site or embassy well before you travel.
When is the best time to visit Turkmenistan?
Spring (April–May) and autumn (September–October) bring pleasant temperatures. Summer is extremely hot, and winter can be surprisingly cold.
Can you travel independently in Turkmenistan?
Independent travel is very restricted. Most visitors travel with a licensed guide or on a short transit arrangement with a fixed route.
How many days do you need in Turkmenistan?
Four to five days covers Ashgabat, Darvaza and Kunya-Urgench, while a week or more lets you add Merv and the far west.
Approximate daily cost per person (stay, food, local transport).
Most travelers move with a guide and driver arranged through a tour company. Domestic flights and trains link the main cities.
- Mausoleum of Sultan Sanjar – 12th-century domed tomb at Merv, a place of local pilgrimage
- Dress modestly, especially outside Ashgabat
- Avoid photographing government buildings and officials
- Accept green tea when offered as a sign of welcome
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