The story of Eritrea
Eritrea sits on an ancient crossroads between Africa and Arabia, and its highlands and Red Sea coast have been inhabited since prehistoric times. Around two thousand years ago the region formed part of the Kingdom of Aksum, whose Red Sea port of Adulis traded with Rome, India and Arabia. Ruins at Qohaito and Metera still hint at that wealth, and Christianity took root in the highlands in the fourth century.
Islam reached the coast very early – Massawa is linked by tradition to some of the first followers of the Prophet who crossed the Red Sea. Over the following centuries the highlands were ruled by local kingdoms such as Medri Bahri, while Massawa passed under Ottoman and later Egyptian control. The country's nine ethnic groups, including the Tigrinya, Tigre, Afar, Bilen and Rashaida, give it a rich mix of languages and traditions.
Read the full history
Italy established the colony of Eritrea in 1890, building railways, ports and the modern city of Asmara, whose daring 1930s modernist buildings earned it UNESCO World Heritage status. Britain took over administration in 1941, and in 1952 Eritrea was federated with Ethiopia, which annexed it in 1962. A long armed struggle for independence followed, and after a referendum Eritrea formally became independent on 24 May 1993.
Since independence the country has remained one of the least-visited in Africa, and travel outside Asmara generally requires permits. Those who make the journey find a calm, unhurried capital of Art Deco cinemas and espresso bars, the coral-stone old town of Massawa, a vintage railway clinging to mountain cliffs and the remote reefs of the Dahlak Archipelago. Check your government's latest travel advice before planning a trip.
Timeline
- c. 1st-7th centuriesRegion forms part of the Kingdom of Aksum, with Adulis as a key port
- 4th centuryChristianity spreads in the highlands
- 16th centuryOttoman Empire takes control of Massawa
- 1890Italy declares the colony of Eritrea
- 1941British administration replaces Italian rule
- 1952Eritrea federated with Ethiopia
- 1993Independence declared on 24 May after a referendum
- 2017Asmara listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site
Entry rules depend on your passport and change often.
Before you book, check the official rules for your passport:
- Visa policy of Eritrea (Wikipedia) ↗
- IATA Travel Centre – passport, visa & health rules ↗
- U.S. passport holders – State Department country pages ↗
- UK passport holders – GOV.UK travel advice ↗
The latest visa and entry news for Eritrea appears below as soon as publishers report it.
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Things to do in Eritrea
- Tour Asmara's modernist architectureSpot the Fiat Tagliero service station, Cinema Impero and dozens of Art Deco gems from the 1930s.
- Join the passeggiataStroll Harnet Avenue at dusk with locals, then stop for a macchiato in a vintage café.
- Ride the old railwayCharter a ride on the restored mountain railway as it winds through tunnels and over bridges toward the coast.
- Explore Massawa's old townWander coral-block houses, Ottoman-era mosques and arcaded streets on the island of Taulud and Massawa.
- Dive the Dahlak ArchipelagoSnorkel or dive pristine, little-visited Red Sea reefs around remote desert islands.
- Visit Keren's Monday marketWatch traders buy and sell camels and livestock in this lively market town.
- See Asmara's marketsBrowse the Medebar recycling market, where artisans turn scrap into tools and household goods.
- Explore Qohaito's ruinsDiscover ancient columns, a dam and rock art on a high plateau overlooking deep canyons.
- Drive through Filfil's green beltEscape to forested hills on the eastern escarpment, a contrast to the dry highlands.
- Take part in a coffee ceremonyShare the ritual of roasting, brewing and serving coffee in three rounds with an Eritrean family.
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Where to go in Eritrea
- 📍AsmaraHighlands · capitalA clean, safe-feeling city famed for its 1930s Italian modernist architecture and café culture.
- MassawaRed Sea coast · portA historic port of coral-stone buildings showing Ottoman, Egyptian and Italian influences.
- Dahlak ArchipelagoRed Sea · islands & divingOver a hundred islands surrounded by unspoilt reefs, reached by boat from Massawa.
- KerenWestern highlands · market townA lively town of markets, mosques and churches, plus a famous baobab shrine at St Mary's.
- QohaitoSouthern highlands · archaeologyRemains of an Aksumite-era town set on a dramatic plateau edge.
- FilfilEastern escarpment · forestA green, misty region of forested hills, a surprising contrast to the dry highlands.
- 📍Senafe & MeteraSouthern highlands · ruinsA town ringed by huge rock outcrops, with the ancient stelae and ruins of Metera nearby.
- Debre Bizen MonasteryNear Nefasit · Orthodox monasteryA centuries-old mountaintop monastery with fine views; traditionally only men may enter.
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- Sip macchiato in Asmara's historic cafés
- Ride the scenic road from Asmara down to Massawa
- Snorkel in the Dahlak Islands
- Visit the market in Keren
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#Sudan#Weather & Alerts- Zigni – spicy meat stew served with injera
- Injera – spongy sourdough flatbread
- Shiro – smooth chickpea stew
- Ful – mashed fava beans for breakfast
Best time to visit Eritrea
Asmara's high altitude gives it a mild, spring-like climate with cool nights all year. The Red Sea coast is among the hottest places on Earth in summer, though winter there is warm and pleasant.
Typical daytime highs and rain in Asmara (approximate averages).
- 24 MayIndependence DayThe biggest celebration of the year, with parades, music and dancing in Asmara's streets.
- JanuaryTimket (Epiphany)Orthodox Christians process with colourful robes and umbrellas to celebrate the baptism of Christ.
- SeptemberMeskelBonfires are lit to commemorate the finding of the True Cross.
- FebruaryFenkil DayMassawa commemorates a key battle of the independence struggle.
How many days in Eritrea?
Day 1-2 explore Asmara's architecture, markets and cafés. Day 3 drive down the escarpment, perhaps via Filfil. Day 4-5 explore Massawa's old town and take a boat trip into the Red Sea.
Day 1-3 Asmara, with a side trip to Keren for its market. Day 4-5 visit Qohaito and southern highland towns, with permits arranged. Day 6-10 head to Massawa and spend several days exploring the Dahlak Archipelago.
Backpacker budget: about $40–60 a day
- Arrange travel permits in Asmara before going anywhere outside the capital – they are required for most trips.
- Public buses connect Asmara with Keren, Massawa and other towns cheaply, but are crowded and leave early.
- Internet access is very limited, so download maps and information before you arrive.
- Try local dishes like zigni (spicy stew) with injera, and ful for breakfast, at small local restaurants.
- Bring all the cash you need, as foreign cards are generally not usable.
Stay safe
- Asmara has low street crime, but always check your government's latest travel advice, as some areas are restricted.
- Border regions, especially near Ethiopia and Djibouti, may be off-limits or advised against.
- Don't photograph government buildings, military sites or officials, and carry your permits and passport.
- Massawa's summer heat can be dangerous – stay hydrated and avoid midday sun.
Money
- Eritrea is a cash economy; bring enough euros or US dollars for your whole stay.
- Foreign credit cards and ATMs are generally not usable for visitors.
- Exchange money only at official banks or exchange offices and keep your receipts.
Emergency: 113 police · 114 ambulance · 116 fire
Asmara International Airport is the only major gateway, with limited flights from the Middle East and East Africa. Land borders are frequently closed or restricted for foreign travellers.
✈️ Cheap flights to Eritrea: airports, flight times & best time to fly →
- Asmara is one of the best-preserved modernist cities in the world and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
- The Fiat Tagliero building in Asmara was designed to look like an airplane with huge cantilevered wings.
- Eritrea has nine officially recognised ethnic groups, each with its own language.
- Massawa's Mosque of the Companions is considered by some to be among the oldest mosque sites in Africa.
- Italian influence lives on in Eritrea's love of pasta, espresso and cycling.
Eritrea travel questions
Is Eritrea safe for tourists?
Asmara itself has a reputation for low street crime, but border areas can be restricted and travel requires permits. Check your government's latest travel advice before planning a trip.
Do I need a visa for Eritrea?
It depends on your passport – most visitors need to arrange a visa in advance through an embassy. Check with the official government site or Eritrean embassy before you travel.
What is the best time to visit Eritrea?
October to March is ideal, with dry weather in the highlands and warm, comfortable conditions on the coast. Summer is extremely hot in Massawa.
Can I travel freely around Eritrea?
Travel outside Asmara usually requires a permit from the authorities, which you request in the capital. Allow time for this when planning your route.
What language is spoken in Eritrea?
Tigrinya and Arabic are widely used, and English is used in education and is fairly common among younger people. Older residents often speak some Italian.
Approximate daily cost per person (stay, food, local transport).
Buses link the main towns, and taxis run in Asmara. Travel outside Asmara may need permits, usually arranged through your hotel or a tour operator.
- Debre Bizen Monastery – Medieval Orthodox monastery on a mountaintop near Nefasit
- Enda Mariam Cathedral – Asmara's main Orthodox cathedral
- Al Khulafa Al Rashiudin Mosque – Asmara's Grand Mosque with a tall minaret
- Dress modestly, especially in churches and mosques
- Eat with your right hand from shared plates
- Ask before photographing people or buildings
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