The story of Togo
Togo is a narrow ribbon of land stretching from the Gulf of Guinea deep into the West African savannah, and it has long been a meeting point of peoples. Oral traditions tell how the Ewe migrated south from the walled town of Notsé to escape a harsh king, founding villages across the coastal plains, while the Kabye, Tem, Batammariba and many other groups settled the hills and plains of the north. Small chiefdoms traded salt, cloth and kola nuts along routes linking the coast to the interior.
Portuguese ships reached this coast in the 15th century, and for the next few hundred years it became part of the so-called Slave Coast, from which many people were shipped across the Atlantic. Towns such as Aného grew as trading posts with strong links to Brazil. In 1884 Germany signed a treaty with chiefs at Togoville on Lake Togo, creating the protectorate of Togoland, and built railways, plantations and the capital, Lomé.
Read the full history
During the First World War, British and French forces took the colony in 1914 and later divided it. The western British part voted to join neighbouring Ghana in the 1950s, while French Togo gained independence on 27 April 1960 under its first president, Sylvanus Olympio. In the decades since, the country has navigated political change and developed Lomé's deep-water port into one of the region's key trade hubs.
For visitors, Togo packs remarkable variety into a small space: palm-lined beaches, the bustling markets and colonial buildings of Lomé, cool green hills full of waterfalls and coffee farms around Kpalimé, and the extraordinary fortress-like mud tower houses of Koutammakou, a UNESCO World Heritage landscape. Vodun traditions, lively music and warm welcomes make it a fascinating, little-visited corner of West Africa.
Timeline
- 15th centuryPortuguese traders reach the Togolese coast
- c. 17th centuryEwe migrations from Notsé shape the south
- 1884German protectorate of Togoland established at Togoville
- 1914British and French forces occupy the colony
- 1956British Togoland votes to join the future Ghana
- 1960Togo gains independence on 27 April
- 2004Koutammakou inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site
Entry rules depend on your passport and change often.
- ECOWAS – ECOWAS member – West African citizens can usually travel within the bloc.
- Commonwealth – Commonwealth member.
Before you book, check the official rules for your passport:
- Visa policy of Togo (Wikipedia) ↗
- IATA Travel Centre – passport, visa & health rules ↗
- U.S. passport holders – State Department country pages ↗
- UK passport holders – GOV.UK travel advice ↗
The latest visa and entry news for Togo appears below as soon as publishers report it.
🛰️ The agents haven't spotted fresh news about Togo in the last few days – here is the travel guide, plus the latest from nearby countries.
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Things to do in Togo
- Browse Lomé's Grand MarchéLose yourself in the stalls of the great market, famous for its powerful cloth traders known as the Nana Benz.
- Visit the Akodessewa fetish marketSee the ingredients of traditional Vodun medicine and talismans laid out at this unusual market in Lomé.
- Cross Lake Togo by pirogueGlide across the lagoon to Togoville, where the German treaty was signed and shrines line the streets.
- Hike Mount AgouClimb Togo's highest peak through cocoa and coffee plantations for views as far as Ghana.
- Explore KoutammakouStep inside the two-storey earthen tower houses, or takienta, of the Batammariba people.
- Swim beneath Akloa FallsTrek through the forest near Badou to a cascade tumbling into a cool pool.
- Seek butterflies at Mount KlotoWalk the forested hills above Kpalimé, rich in birds and colourful butterflies.
- Meet Kpalimé's artisansWatch woodcarvers, weavers and potters at work in this relaxed hill town.
- Stroll colonial AnéhoWander a faded former capital of old merchant houses between the lagoon and the sea.
- Watch Evala wrestlingJoin the crowds in the Kara region as young Kabye men compete in traditional initiation wrestling.
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Where to go in Togo
- LoméCoast · capitalA laid-back seaside capital with buzzing markets, a palm-lined beachfront and the striking Independence Monument.
- 📍Lake Togo and TogovilleCoast · lagoonA peaceful lagoon for boat trips, with a historic village full of Vodun shrines and a cathedral.
- KpaliméPlateaux · hillsTogo's hiking capital, surrounded by forest, waterfalls, coffee plantations and craft villages.
- Mount AgouPlateaux · mountainThe country's highest point, with trails through farms and hillside villages.
- KoutammakouNorth · UNESCO landscapeA living cultural landscape of fortress-like mud houses that is one of West Africa's most unique sights.
- AnéhoCoast · historic townA former colonial capital with crumbling architecture and strong Vodun traditions.
- 📍BadouPlateaux · waterfallsA hill town in cocoa country and the base for hiking to Akloa Falls.
- 📍KaraNorth · regional cityThe north's main city and gateway to Kabye villages, markets and the Evala festival.
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#Sao Tome and Principe#United States#Príncipe#Visas & Entry Rules- Hike to waterfalls around Kpalimé
- Cross Lake Togo by pirogue to Togoville
- Browse the Grand Marché in Lomé
- See the takienta houses of Koutammakou
- Fufu – pounded yam served with soup
- Akoumé – maize dough eaten with sauces
- Ablo – slightly sweet steamed corn cakes
- Grilled fish with pepper sauce – a coastal favourite
Best time to visit Togo
Southern Togo has two rainy seasons and stays hot and humid, though Lomé is drier than much of the coast. The north has a single wet season from about May to October and a hot, dry Harmattan season in winter, while the hills around Kpalimé are slightly cooler.
Typical daytime highs and rain in Lomé (approximate averages).
- JulyEvalaA Kabye coming-of-age festival around Kara, built around fierce traditional wrestling matches.
- SeptemberEpe EkpeThe Guin people's new year at Glidji near Aného, when the colour of a sacred stone foretells the year ahead.
- SeptemberAgbogbozanEwe communities gather in Notsé to celebrate their ancestral migration with dances and ceremonies.
- AprilIndependence Day27 April brings parades, music and celebrations across the country.
How many days in Togo?
Days 1-2 explore Lomé's markets, beachfront and fetish market. Day 3 is a boat trip on Lake Togo to Togoville. Days 4-5 head to Kpalimé for forest hikes and a climb of Mount Agou.
Days 1-3 cover Lomé, Lake Togo and Aného, then Days 4-6 are for Kpalimé, Mount Agou and the waterfalls around Badou. Days 7-10 travel north via Atakpamé to Kara and the tower houses of Koutammakou, then return to Lomé.
Backpacker budget: about $25–40 a day
- Motorbike taxis called zemidjans are the cheapest and quickest way around towns; agree the fare before you hop on.
- Shared bush taxis and minibuses link the main towns from Lomé's gares routières (bus stations).
- Kpalimé is the most backpacker-friendly town, with simple guesthouses and guides for hiking.
- Eat at roadside maquis for fufu, pâte with sauce and grilled fish at very low cost.
- French is the main language, so a few phrases plus a greeting in Ewe ('woezo' means welcome) will help.
Stay safe
- Check your government's latest travel advice: many advise against travel to the far north near the Burkina Faso border because of armed groups.
- Lomé's beaches have dangerous currents and strong waves, so avoid swimming in the sea.
- Petty theft happens in markets and on the beachfront at night; keep valuables hidden and take taxis after dark.
- Protect against malaria with mosquito repellent and advice from a travel clinic, and wear a helmet on motorbike taxis.
Money
- The currency is the West African CFA franc, shared with neighbouring countries and pegged to the euro.
- ATMs are found in Lomé and larger towns, mostly accepting Visa, but carry cash for rural areas.
- Tipping is not expected at local eateries, but small tips for guides and drivers are appreciated.
Emergency: 117 police · 118 fire
Lomé's Gnassingbé Eyadéma International Airport has flights across West Africa and to Europe. Land borders connect with Ghana right at Lomé's western edge, with Benin along the coast and with Burkina Faso in the north.
✈️ Cheap flights to Togo: airports, flight times & best time to fly →
- Togo's coastline is only around 50 kilometres long, yet the country stretches about 600 kilometres inland.
- The Nana Benz were wealthy women cloth traders in Lomé, nicknamed after the Mercedes-Benz cars they drove.
- The name Togo comes from Togoville, a lakeside town whose Ewe name is often translated as 'beyond the water'.
- Lomé replaced Aného as the colonial capital in 1897, under German rule.
- Togo's national football team made its first World Cup appearance in 2006.
Togo travel questions
Is Togo safe for tourists?
The south and centre of Togo are generally calm and welcoming, but many governments advise against travel to the far north near Burkina Faso. Check your government's latest travel advice before you go.
What is the best time to visit Togo?
November to February is the most comfortable time, with dry weather and good roads. The rainy seasons can make rural travel harder.
How many days do you need in Togo?
Five days covers Lomé, Lake Togo and the hills of Kpalimé. Allow ten days to add Koutammakou in the north.
Do I need a visa for Togo?
It depends on your passport – check the official government site or your nearest embassy before you travel.
What language is spoken in Togo?
French is the official language, while Ewe dominates in the south and Kabye in the north. English is not widely spoken outside a few hotels.
Approximate daily cost per person (stay, food, local transport).
Shared taxis, minibuses and moto-taxis called zémidjans are the main ways to get around.
- Greet people before asking questions
- Ask before taking photos, especially of shrines
- Use your right hand to give and receive
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